Being close to the coast makes Tsavo a very popular safari destination for people holidaying at Malindi and Mombasa. The lodges and camps based along the Galana River are mainly used by operators from Malindi whilst those in south of the park, close to Voi, by those from Mombasa. The thick bush and lack of tracks means that finding some of the more elusive animals like lion, leopard and cheetah can be extremely difficult however, the park's very remoteness can often throw up surprises since the animals tend to be less disturbed by tourist traffic. Once you get away from the more popular areas, and especially first thing in the morning, it is possible to stumble on rarities like honey badger, aardwolf and striped hyena.

The abiding memory of Tsavo East is of a vast red landscape with many of the animals tinged red by the soil. Large herds of red elephants and a variety of specialised dry-country animals such as the weird looking gerenuk, dik-dik, fringe-eared oryx and lesser kudu are all there to be found.

Tsavo East was the home of the infamous maneaters of Tsavo, a pride of lions that delayed the construction of the railway line through Kenya for several months, in the early 20th century, when they developed a taste for human flesh and started eating the workers. Their descendants can still be found today - far wilder than their more easily seen savannah counterparts, they always appear larger and more intimidating in the thick bush of Tsavo East.

There are a number of accommodation options available both in and outside the park, which we use depends on a number of factors. Some of the camps along the Galana River are quite stunning considering their remoteness, some of the lodges around Voi, catering for the more budget-conscious traveller, slightly less so. We tend to use Voi Safari Lodge, perched on a rocky hillside, not far from the park's main gate, with unparalleled views across the park and a permanent waterhole that attracts a constant parade of wildlife to it, or Ndololo Safari Camp which provides a more intimate bush experience, situated close to Kanderi Swamp, again with its own waterhole.

For people wishing for a bit more of an adventure we also often use Ndololo campsite which, for a wild campsite, is extremely well serviced and looked after by the Kenya Wildlife Service. Close to Kanderi Swamp the camp is often visited by elephant and lion as well as less problematic visitors such as waterbuck, dik-dik, impala and baboons.

Whilst the two Tsavos are unlikely to provide close up encounters with vast numbers of animals, like those experienced in places like the Mara, the animal sightings here do tend to be more personal and rewarding, relying as they do on far higher levels of knowledge of animal behaviour and habitat. This, combined with the scenic grandeur, vastness and wildness, make Tsavo one of our favourite destinations.